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Build Thread for my 66GT
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Thread: Build Thread for my 66GT

  1. #1

    Build Thread for my 66GT

    Hi everyone. First time post for me. I have recently purchased some parts from Al and after discussing my build over email with Al he suggested that I post up some details of my car's restoration for anyone that might be interested. I've been at it for about 5 months now and am learning a lot. I've put together a wordpress site to track my progress. I've just knocked up a brief history of the car to this stage but the plan is to update it more regularly going forward now. I have loads of photos of just about everything that I've dismantled so far so if anyone wants to see something more then let me know.

    https://gregscortinagt.wordpress.com

    Regards,
    Greg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    middle northern Melbourne
    Posts
    2,537
    Great work Greg. Thanks for posting the link to your page. Looks like it's coming along well.
    www.cortina-mk1.com
    Contact me for parts.

  3. #3
    Got my car back on the rotisserie yesterday to start preparing the body - https://gregscortinagt.wordpress.com...he-rotisserie/

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    middle northern Melbourne
    Posts
    2,537
    Have you tried using strip disks?

    I got some compatible for my 7 inch grinder/buffer and stripped the entire car using about 3 disks. They don't heat the panel up much unless you really try. My car had the original primer and topcoat (hard as nails), another layer of primer/body filler and topcoat and they ripped it off with ease. Good for the big flat panels like the roof/guards/doors etc.

    Then I did a heap of detail with smaller disks on the 4 inch grinder (door jambs and the like).
    www.cortina-mk1.com
    Contact me for parts.

  5. #5
    I found both worked well. With paint stripped put some glad wrap over it, really gets working, I run line in the paint to get the paint stripper in a couple of layers too. Did half the original car with disc and a wire wheel bush too, then a new born put pay to noise so switched to stripper, then got the other shell and had it all blasted 😜
    Last edited by chrisjmckeown; 3rd July 2017 at 06:41 PM. Reason: spelling

  6. #6
    I have been using both the stripper and discs. It was my panel beater who told me to do it this way. He'll then clean it up with a sandblast with some very fine dust. I thought my car was pretty rust free but until he's dust blasted it you just don't know. A couple of very slight discolourations on the bonnet turned into massive holes when blasted. One things for sure, there won't be an ounce of rust in this car when finished!

  7. #7
    Jamie Larner called me yesterday to let me know they had finished my engine. They sent me some photos and it looks like a work of art. Unfortunately a little while before the rest of the car will be ready but at least I'll have something pretty to look at in the meantime - https://gregscortinagt.wordpress.com...gine-finished/

  8. #8
    what specs did you get the engine built too and what did they charge ?

  9. #9
    Sorry for not responding sooner, have been offline. Work done was - Pressure test block and hot tank components, Bore, hone and surface block, balance crank and flywheel, machine flywheel assembly, new pistons and rings +30, new bearings etc., fit hardened inserts to exhaust seats, cut seats and surface cylinder head, new valves, valve springs, water pump, high pressure oil pump, new fast road spec cam (not sure of specs), new cam followers, timing chain, tensioner pad, tensioner assembly, new 32/36 weber, modifed original distributor to electronic, new clutch and heavy duty pressure plate, set of lotus rods, everything else new and probably stuff I have forgotten. Sump and tappet cover powder coated, block painted original ford racing green. Engine assembled and dynoed at 110hp. About $10k. This was built to my specs and we were hoping for something around 100hp for what is essentially a lightly modified GT spec engine. As they were 78hp from the factory to get 110hp from an engine that looks stock is a great result. Wouldn't cost much more to go full race specs, just additional cost for twin carbies and more extensive head work. I'm no engine builder so for me having a turnkey reliable and well sorted engine was much more important than saving a few bucks. And you don't need to spend much time talking to Jamie to be convinced that they know their stuff, particularly around small Fords.

  10. #10
    ok thanks for replying
    I got a quote of them and was crazy silly so did the build through another builder and was 40% cheaper
    spent 9k for 127hp

    6k for engine build inc exeedy clutch and plate 3k for ancillaries inc fuel oil water pumps high tourqe cae starter and bosch scorcher distributor not some cheap electronic conversion

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