MK1 Zetec

[aeroz]

Hello All,
Firstly, let me thank Geoff for providing an outlet for those with the MK1 disorder. I visited Geoff several years ago while I was in Ballarat and he was very helpful with information and suggestion for my MK1 project.

I am currently in the process of converting a MK1 2 door to take a Zetec. The conversion also includes a change to rack & pinion steering and a Type 9 5 speed. The lower control arms are newly machined and include a compression strut.

I have attached a few photos and will add more as it progresses.

Regards,

Matt
Melbourne, Australia

[jewels]

hi matt,
thanx for sharing your project

i like the work your doing :)

whats the storey with the lower control arms?

have they been CNC machined on a special design?

[dmulally]

I thought long and hard about going the zetec route then after rego putting it on twin 45's.

Ill be taking a keen interest in this one...

Looking good.

[cortina_gt]

Matt, looks like you have a great start on your conversion. I will be putting a Zetec with GSXR 750 throttle bodies and a T9 in my MK1 Gt. I hope to start in the next couple of months.

John

[zombie289]

Great looking work there Matt, I see you are using strut rods to locate the control arms, will u be using a drop link swaybar??
Cheers
Pauly
Zombie289

[aeroz]

Hello All,
The story with the lower control arms... I wanted to do the rack conversion and keep the Mk1 struts, so I used an Escort crossmember & rack and modified the crossmember to suit the Cortina chassis rails. I needed to have shorter lower control arms to keep the struts in the same position (actually slightly wider to get the positive camber out) so I had a pair machined the same as the originals but shorter.

Like most of these conversions it gets more involved the further you go! I opted to go for the compression struts to avoid having to modify the swaybar to clear the rack (might have been easier in the long run!). I will mount the sway bar to the struts with some drop links as zombie289 suggests.

Cheers,

Matt

[jewels]

matt, very clever
you are the only only we have seen to tackle this problem of geometry like this ...so far...

well done and good to see someone who has put thought to this problem when using changing to rack and pinion

[aeroz]

A couple more photos...

The rack rod-ends attach to newly machined steering arms that are secured between the strut and the lower ball joint (original steering arm cut off the ball joint). The steering rack was lowered by 1.5 inches to get the bumpsteer below 0.020 inch per inch of travel (see attached plot). This has the added advantage of giving more clearance for the Zetec sump.

The brake discs & calipers are from an AU Falcon (I am ordering some undrilled discs so that I can drill to suit the 4 bolt pattern). A simple adapter and spacers are used to mount the calipers. The Falcon disc give good clearance on the steering arm and rod-end.

Cheers,

Matt

[aeroz]

A little more progress..
I plan to run the original induction manifold & EFI for starters (maybe go to throtlle bodies after rego). Did a trial fit and have got adequate clearance on the inner guard (the original manifold is very deep).

The transmission tunnel is now finished to fit the five speed.

The sump has been skimmed to remove all the FWD crap. I will now have to fabricate an aluminium base and box to weld onto whats left of the original sump.

Cheers,

Matt

[jewels]

again very nice work and progressing very nicely

i never realized how the original manifoldlooked from that angle

[aeroz]

G'Day All,
A bit of progress on the instrument panel. A mounting assembly has been fabricated to use the round speedo and tacho rather than the old strip style speedo. I will be using a 4 gauge instrument cluster from an aeroflow model GT, mounted upside down on the lower edge of the panel, the angle of the gauges seem to work nicely. I will use a brushed aluminium facia behind the speedo & tacho.

Cheers,

Matt

[Dr Danger]

Well that's original! This car will certainly be a little different to the rest won't it... :) Excellent.

[antos]

that project seems to be coming along nicely. I actually have a mk1 2 door 1500e consul deluxe myself and have been trying to find info from anywhere but to no avail.

just curious for your guage cluster (speedo/tacho) did you want to step away from say the lotus look (4 guages together) just to be different?

[aeroz]

G'Day Antos,
Regarding the speedo/tacho cluster..., I have owned several later model (aeroflow) MK1's before and have collected various gauges and stuff, so I guess I was looking to use what I had, and yes, I guess I was looking to be different also!

I hope to be sorting out some more minor body work and paint over the next few months, will post more when there is more to show.

Cheers,
Matt

[aeroz]

Just finished a few more bits. Attached photo of an extension piece for the steering rack (the Cortina track is slightly wider than the Escort so some adapters were required to make it all fit). Also some photos of new hubs. The hubs are machined to the same dimensions as the original Mk1 hubs (Same bearings and off-set etc.) but don't have the inboard disc mounting flanges. The new hubs are stronger at the back of the flange and have a stepped shoulder to locate the AUII Falcon disc correctly. They are machined from 1045 carbon steel.

Cheers,

Matt

[jewels]

nice work :)
can you tell me what sort of material you are making these components out of ?

[aeroz]

G'Day Jewels,
The lower control arms, brake caliper adapter brackets, new steering arms and the steering rack extension pieces are machined out of AISI 4140 steel (Chrome moly steel, Yield strength of about 650 MPa). The wheel hubs are from AISI 1045 (Carbon steel, Yield strength of about 400 MPa).

Cheers,

Matt

[aeroz]

A few more bits...
Had some brackets laser cut, brackets for the rear disc brake calipers (including spacers to replace the drum brake backing plate) and an exhaust manifold flange to fabricate some extractors with.

Cheers,

Matt

[aeroz]

Hello All,
What else would we do over Christmas but work on the Cortina!. Attached are some photos of the progress. A strip back to bear metal for the engine bay and front panel. A rust repair insert patch for just below the three slots on the front panel. A coat of 2 Pak primer filler and then the 2 Pak top coat. The colour is the VE Commodore red (the photo doesn't show it well).

Cheers,

Matt

[aeroz]

A few more photos. What do they say... Measure twice and cut once! Had to redo the engine mounts to give clearance for the starter motor!

Got a Raceline water rail the other week, nice bit if gear (should be for the price!)

Next is getting the concentric clutch slave cylinder to fit the Type 9 gearbox and re-machine the flywheel to position the ring gear to suit the Escort starter motor. The transformation of the Zetec from FWD to RWD is nearly complete.

Cheers,

Matt

[aeroz]

A little bit more done on the old girl. Removed the paint from the dash and fabricated a fill in piece to blend the 4 gauge cluster into the dash. Removed the head lining and found all the sound deadening material was coming of the under side of the roof leaving exposed metal and lots of surface rust, it is all cleaned up nicely now. A few floor rust repairs to go and we should have the interior painted over the next few months.

Cheers,

Matt

[jewels]

aeroz nice touch

and good idea :)

[JOSE]

You can eliminate those tie rod extensions by getting a pair of tie rods to suit a late 70's volvo 220/240 - there are two types for those models and one has the exact same inner and outer threads, but are around 35mm longer, and one doesnt have the same threads (guess which ones i bought :unsure)

[aeroz]

A few more bits...
I have replaced the original Type 9 gearbox input shaft housing with a machined aluminium piece so that I can use the Mondeo concentric clutch cylinder. Also laser cut a new steering wheel, now have to get it covered.

Cheers,

Matt

[jewels]

nice work aeroz
as we have seen from you all along :)

[aeroz]

A trial fit...
Checked the spacing with the bell housing and gearbox on the back of the Zetec also.
Looks like it should work!

[Matthew]

Hi Matt,
What is the go with the steering wheel? I had thoughts of doing what you have done, but I dont know what to do to get the rim the right shape (from flat to round). Do you have any other pics of the wheel?
Matthew.

[aeroz]

Hello Matthew,
The round shape for the steering wheel has been a bit of an issue. I intend to have it covered in leather and the company I was going to use used to have rubber mouldings to get the shape, they now no longer have any! I priced getting a piece moulded from a company I sometimes use to get seals made but it was going to be about $300!

Plan B...
My plan now is to cut two plywood discs (donuts), the top one from 13 mm and the bottom one from 9 mm. Use a roll over bit to shape the radius on the outer edges and then route a slot to take the aluminium wheel. Then I would glue it to the aluminium wheel and get it leather covered. I hope it works!

I have attached a drawing of what I have in mind.

Cheers,

Matt

[garyeanderson]

Woods not the right stuff in my opinion, splinters and the like on impact. I would think that some high density foam wrapped in leather would be much better. Take a look at this stuff. it not soft foam. Its sounds like the same stuff as newer roll bar padding that is used to prevent the helmet from contacting the steel bar in an impact. I don;t know if you can use a router with it but it's not that expensive for a 16 x 18 inch piece 33$ USD

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=2396

more info here

http://www.rollbarpadding.com/prod_SFI452.html

I have not used it.

Gary

[benny]

Woods not the right stuff in my opinion, splinters and the like on impact.


There are plenty of wood steering wheels out there, and if you impact the steering wheel hard enough to break the wood, I'd like to believe the splinters would be the last of your worries.

I made a wood steering wheel once.....I wanted it to be 16" diameter, and there just weren't many options out there. I didn't have access to a laser cutting machine, so I cut the aluminum 'core' by hand, and then cut two circular discs of marine grade plywood, and riveted them to the aluminum core. From there, I shaped, and rounded the edges of the wood using the core as my guide. If you look closely, this is the same method Moto-lota use.....their wood rims are never perfect near the spokes, which indicates they are done as an assembly.

Mine had that "hand-made appearance", but it used to get tons of compliments.

[garyeanderson]

Hi Benny

Just my opinion, worth every cent as I don't charge. Differing opinions is what is great about this forum. Each and every one of us can do as they please. Look at the varity of different engines in use here, not many other forums are as diverse in location as this one. We have it all and everyone offers something different to think about, please don't stop posting, its all good stuff.

Gary

[nomad]

If a bloke were to make a female plaster mould with a bit of tubing at the diameter of the aluminium wheel but only half depth so that the mould looked like a D on it's side, then filled the mound with neutral cure silicone sealant and positioned the wheel upside down in the mould so that the face to the driver finished plain. Then spent the next twenty-four hours making a mould with some finger grips for the other side while the sealant set, I'd reckon he'd finish up with a reasonably comfortable former to be lacing a leather cover over (and no splinters!).

[benny]

Hi Benny

please don't stop posting, its all good stuff.

Gary

I wasn't planning on it.....thanks.:headscratch

[aeroz]

Thanks guys for the ideas & comments, lots of ways to skin a cat!

I was looking at using a good quality ply (like marine ply as Benny has used), I think it will be the way to go for me.

Benny, do you have any photos of the 16 inch wheel you made? I would love to check it out.

Cheers,

Matt

[benny]

Benny, do you have any photos of the 16 inch wheel you made? I would love to check it out.

Matt

I don't have any pics of the wheel in its "prime", but I still have the wheel hanging on the garage wall.....it's just looking a little worse for wear nowadays.

I'll shoot some pics of it to give you the idea, but I'm not bragging about the thing. I was 18 when I did it, and could do a much better job today......with a laser cutter, I could do a MUCH better job.:thumbs

[hirev]

Matt,
It looks like a very cool project and it seems clear, you have some great
skills. However, I must ask why you just dont buy a MotoLita steering wheel?

Keep posting photos.
Thanks
Ken

[RS2K]

Great work Aeroz!

I'm doing similar but in a Mk2 RS2000 Escort but using the narrower Focus inlet manifold as there is less room in the Escort engine bay. I also have troubles with the manifold fouling on the original Xmember (see below). New mounts should fix that :winner

Are you running the EGR valve and if not is that a problem - will the ECU record a fault? Reason being is that the Focus does not run an EGR and I will be using the Mondeo engine and ECU.

What are you doing for the sump - it looks like you will be modifying the original Mondeo item as I will?

Keep the images coming!

Cheers Paul

[aeroz]

Hello RS2K,
I was planning to do away with the EGR valve, not sure about recording a fault, good question. I will have to do a bit of research and let you know!

With the sump I was originally planning to fabricate aluminium section to weld onto the shaved down Mondeo sump, now I am thinking of doing a complete metal one. Still looking into that one so I will let you know.

I am glad you are using the Mondeo ECU, it will be good to share information.

Progress has been a bit slow over the last month (started a new job) but I hope to get lots done over the next few months (and over Xmas) so I will post more photos soon.

Cheers,

Matt

[RS2K]

Hi Matt.

Yes - it seems we're both as similar points of our respective builds :D

If you like i can email you shots of my progress as I go so we can hopefully learn from each other's mistakes. i doubt images of an Escort on here would please the moderators :yikes

Keep the updates coming once you get settled.

Cheers Paul

[jewels]

rs2k,
there is only 1 mod here
and things are very easy going and layed back :)

you can post you project pics no problems as these cars all share similarities

just start a new thread

[Dr Danger]

You forgetting anyone Jewels? :)

But yeh, if it's interesting, pop it in a new thread.

[pmolly]

Oh Dear :stir

Is the pressure of the big day starting to build on DD????:argue

PM

[Dr Danger]

Note the happy smiley face Mol! :)

Nagh, just bored at work ATM...

And yes, just maybe a little bit...

[jewels]

i am referring to you DD :)

[Dr Danger]

Ah, I see. Seperating yourself as admin.

[RS2K]

Hi Guys - thanks for the invite....but :offtopic

Where's the updates Matt :headscratch

[tokvam]

Hello I am guy from Norway and i want to have the zetec in my cortina! Could I use the orignal gear box and bolt it to the zetec? (I dont want to cut in the car but want some more power) I also have a super 7 with duratec with 240 hp! so the Cortina is a slow car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[cortina_gt]

One of the best places I've found information on Zetec installations is
http://www.turbosport.co.uk/
You may have to sign up to see the photos. there is a Technical section in the forum with a sub-section on Zetecs.

John

[aeroz]

Hello All,
Time to get a bit more done, some rust repairs to the front of the sills and lower front guards. Cut the lower guard section and removed the paint and bog from a previous sill repair that will need to be re-done. Looks like I will have to order some sill repair sections from Jewels! I got the guard repair sections from Rare Spares. Hopefully I can get a bit done over Christmas.

Cheers,

Matt

[jewels]

ive used those lower guard piece before they are ok
as long as they dont stop making them like the sills

i always think our rust repairs are nothing compared to the UKers

so we are so lucky here

[Matthew]

i always think our rust repairs are nothing compared to the UKers

so we are so lucky here

I second that.

[didly]

Hi all, this is my first post so i thought i might make it a useful one. If i can give some been there done that advice to aeroz concerning that lovely looking CSC and mount. I have a mk1 escort with a zetec installed and went down the same route as you have with the CSC mount and mondeo cylinder. The only problem with having the connections out the side is it creates a air pocket at the top which will "NOT" bleed out when the gearbox is fitted. After 2 days of bleeding had to remove engine and gear box to fix issue. Eventually fitted a small dry brake coupling in the pressure in line and bled CSC on the floor of shed with conections facing up, refitted and worked fine. Only trouble is if it leakes between coupling and CSC, box will have to come out. If you have the time it will save some headaches to rotate the CSC 90 Deg and bring hoses out through the top of belhousing.

[Captin Crayford]

Hi All

Yes Jewels i was just looking at those picks aeroz's car. If that was all i had to worry about it would be a breeze.... Rust is a BIG killer in the UK as you all know. Finding a good shell is a must. My Wagon was a good shell with little repairs done on it before.
You guys have rusty cars i know here, but from what i've seen in the wreckers the guys in the UK would go spare!!!!lol.... Can you not buy up a stock of panels form Rare Spares or do a deal with them some how not to stop making them???..

[RS2K]

Great to see an update.

I'm also tackling the dreaded rust repairs in anticipation for paint in April :thumbs

These turned up last week from the UK - very happy :D

[aeroz]

G'Day Paul,
Very nice looking extractors, I am very jealous! You didn't bring 2 sets in did you!

Cheers,

Matt

[RS2K]

I asked the Q on another Forum as I was keen to get a number of sets to assist in offsetting the postage - but there were no takers :headscratch

[aeroz]

Firsty, thanks Didly, I will take your advice and rotate the clutch slave cylinder to aid bleeding. Good value this forum!

I have added a few photos of the RH sill repair. I waited to late before Xmas to get a sill repair section in time and had a go at folding one up. Was a bit of a stuggle without a real folder but it ended up fitting OK (will order one from Jewels for the other side!)

Back to work tomorrow (bummer), still trying to get the interior painted over the next few weeks.

Cheers,

Matt

[malbabe]

Hi,Where did you purchase that blue template tool.

[aeroz]

Hello Malbabe,
Found the template tool at a Total Tools store in Melbourne. A similar type tool store should have one or be able to get one in.

Cheers,

Matt