My 2 door

[dmulally]

Hi All,

I shall be setting this up for track work in Group Nb.

I will sort the body out quick smart. It came with a good bonnet and doors and is generally rust free.

Once I am happy with that, I will source a rusty 4 door that is complete and transfer it all over.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t289/dmulally/1.jpg

Ever get the feeling you have bitten off more than you can chew?
:-)

Cheers

Damo

[jewels]

thats a nice body

...trust me damo
you have not bitten of more than you can chew :)

have you seen our
progress pics on the 63 GT we are restoring

they are here (http://www.cortina-mk1.com/gallery.php) in the gallery

youve got nothing to worry about hehe

[Bertil]

Looks great that shell Damo, rust welding is a killer and it looks like you don´t need to worry about that. What plans do you have for engine and suspension set up?

jewels: I had a look at your GT-63. I see that it had the trim along the flash on the sides. My -63 GT don´t have that trim, what month is your car built? There are no traces of trim on my one and it is a 1 owner car so def genuine. Also the books say that the -63 GT never got the trim. Don´t know about Australia though...

[Dr Danger]

All the export GT's (well, to Oz at least) had the trim Bertil.

[Bertil]

Yes I know, but it says in the books the first -63 GT´s not had the trim, not even on export cars.

[dmulally]

Thanks guys.

The engine is up in the air at the moment. I might see if I can speak to the ppl who host the cortina-mk1 website as they do some conversions. Depends on their work load etc though like most things.

I was going to enter in Nb historics but all my mates supersprint so I can pretty much get what I like in that series as lomg as it is regoed. Ill also do some classic rallying for a laugh. Never done it but in the clubby it is too hard as there is no windscreen and is I think too fast.

From a lotus 7 replica background lighter is always better so I will see about making my own alloy panels or perhaps seeing if I can get the bonnet and boot lid in carbon. I know a bloke. Ill have both though just in case for rego. Ill have to heft the mild steel items to see if its even worth it.

Engine at this stage is looking like a Zetec with 45's on the side for a modern kick and retro look. I dont know much about the duratec but I hear they are the ducks guts. They are still pretty pricey but at the end of the day, as long as the missus doesnt find out Its all good. "found this sr20det on the side of the road hon....happy birthday!"

I have a 4age in my clubby and I am a big fan but its time to move on me thinks. I havent ruled out another toyota engine either. 3sge perhaps.

Outside I will leave stock. Perhaps with just minilites. I have a set of them in the garage anyway so Ill use them to roll it around on after it comes off the frame jig.

If you guys are interested in pics Im happy to post up. Also, Ill do some experiments with making some alternate panels in light weight alloy and see if it makes any difference structurally and also to the overall weight. Some ppl chase horse power but I feel better chasing power to weight ratios.

As I want to set up on the track for slicks and on the road for r spec tyres, I will need a fairly stiff setup and that means adding sway bars to the diff and in the bonnet perhaps. That means weight. What one hand giveth the other air chisels away! The half cage will add some also but saftey features gives the confidence to put the foot down turn 1 eastern creek and phillip island!

Ill see how far I get this weekend and let you know how I go. My clubby is still on the market with no bites so no rush.

Cheers
Damo

Ps. If anyone wants theirs painted, let me know. I am NSW central coast. I have sprayed a couple cars and always looking for more victi...friends to practice on!

[jewels]

damo :)
the host of cortina-mk1.com
is us LOL

geoff user here is the one you may need to speak with

all the sites are part of the same thing and are linked

cortina-mk1classifieds.com
is as well

[jewels]

bertil, 63 trim as far as i know were on them all here
there are very few here in Oz
probably about 7 and not all restored
all of them have side moldings

i dont think we got really early models of anything they all went to other countries first

[dmulally]

damo :)
the host of cortina-mk1.com
is us LOL

geoff user here is the one you may need to speak with

all the sites are part of the same thing and are linked

cortina-mk1classifieds.com
is as well

Lol there you go! I didnt even think about that to be honest. Now I am getting serious about things I may need to give Geoff a buzz.

[Dr Danger]

Sounds like a project alright! Really looking forward to the progress of this one. There is a guy in NZ that makes VERY light fibreglass doors, bonets and boots who I could put you in contact with if you want. Sounds like you have things pretty sussed though.

[dmulally]

Sounds like a project alright! Really looking forward to the progress of this one. There is a guy in NZ that makes VERY light fibreglass doors, bonets and boots who I could put you in contact with if you want. Sounds like you have things pretty sussed though.

Thanks buddy.

I have done some weighing (left the figures at home) and it is only the boot and the doors which could use some less weight.

The bonnet seems to be light enough. If I can lift it with one arm out to the side of me, then it isnt going to make me go much faster by making it lighter.

The doors though are like anvils. I am going to disect one this week to find out why they are so heavy and what can be done to improve. I wish it were due to the skin as that would be easy to change but I doubt it.

I will have to look at the legalities of perspex like material with a sliding window but having one for rego and one for use is feasable.

If you could send me that guys details Ill see what he has on offer. I am always happy to farm out work to keep things moving. If I do knock something up, anyone here is welcome to buy some boat anchors for $1 each. Pickup only...by forklift!

Cheers

Damo

[dmulally]

Also, I will be trialling soda blasting for the first time for paint removal in some areas.

I have never tried it before so Ill see how I go. If anyone is interested in how I go, let me know and Ill take plenty of pics and perhaps some youtube footage as I go. If not, I wont bother. Im sure Ill be sick of the stuff before too long!

Cheers

Damian

[dmulally]

Hi All,

My blaster still hasnt rocked up but on the weekend I got the body shell sandblasted. This was because there was so much spray putty and bog I needed to know for sure where the holes were.

It is sitting in my garage in zinc phosphate so wont rust for a bit. I have to lead fill a few spots but only weld in a couple of repair sections thank god.

Cheers

Damo

[jewels]

soda blasting is all the go now
i have seen the results myself and real impressive the finish left on the car

[dmulally]

I have started the lead wiping and it is coming along well. I will get the hammer and dolly out with the blow torch and see if I can save the rear quarter. It will take longer but such is life.

I will be soda blasting the boot doors and bonnet when the friggen thing rocks up. I bought it nearly 3 weeks ago. I have set up my garden shed as a blasting booth.

Am hoping to have all body work done and etch primer on the shell this sunday providing I come into no real hassles.

The engine choices though are keeping me up at nights. I might post under the engines section to see what advice I can get.

Cheers

Damo

[dmulally]

oh, and quick question...

where is the VIN located and whats it held in by? Ive got a very good registered donor car on the way...

Oh, and sorry about the crap pic as it was taken on my phone.

http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t289/dmulally/phosphate.jpg

[dmulally]

Hi Damo, this is alter ego Damo2.

Crap pic of a crap car.

If you bothered to look at the good -mk1.com site you will see the section on where the VIN is located. Now stop being a knob and get back to work.

Cheers

Damo2

[Dr Danger]

Ah, bipolar disorder. Second only to torrets for laughs...

Quick work on the car. Must be because both 'poles' are working different shifts. :)

[jewels]

mmm intersting read :confused:

im sure you have had words with yourself there dmullally

[dmulally]

Well I have confronted my demons and we are getting along great now...

As for the corty, last night I was still working on the inner shell/floors. I started on the outer panels (have been dreading that) and got the wind up round 9pm as being too loud. I had the hammer out and was shaping away as best I could. I really want to salvage the panels than weld as its more rewarding when its all straight. Ill use filler to smooth out the final touches.

Hope to have in etch this weekend if all is well.

My donor arrives in a weeks time so need to pull my finger out.

Cheers
Damo

[dmulally]

Can anyone recommend any shocks for track work by any chance?

Shocks are one of the free items we can use as long as it uses the same mount points.

Cheers

Damian

[Dr Danger]

Depends totally on budget. You can go from putting heavier oil in your old ones for $10, to fully adjustable Bilstein gas inserts for probably something around $2000? (don't quote me on that last figure, it was a while ago I priced them and I wasn't that serious in getting a good quote). Koni do a semi-adjustable insert I think that are reputed to be quite good and middle of the range price wise. For full on track work though the Bilstiens would be the go as they are fully rebuildable/adjustable with the correct tools and no-how.

[dmulally]

Still toying with ideas while I do the body.

I guess the end state would be to be in historics. They run a controlled tyre which is pretty sticky.

For sprinting though I am a fan of the Kumho V700's which have great adhesion. I am worried though that with all the grip I will need some stiffer shocks other wise I will get too much body roll.

[Dr Danger]

Body roll can be tuned out reasonably easily with stiffer springs and/or roll bars. I there are several thickness swaybars you can order, 24mm or 27mm but many racers like to go with thinner swaybars (like 19 or something) and the up the spring rate to 300lbs+.

[dmulally]

Does anyone know where I can get the springs or roll bars or a part number to order in from?

I think Ill need them as I know it wont be going too fast...

Aslo, I cant figure out what my 2 door is...

The only number is near the strut top and that is...

156(or C)A15253C

I think the 3rd digit is a 6 but not sure. Could be a C.

Anyone know what it is? If its not a GT 500 Ill throw it in the bin. :-)

Just kidding.

[jewels]

dmulally,

do you have a id tag still on the car ?

can you see a body stamp on the radiator support panel on the passenger side

CG7**** etc?

there will be a model code on the id tag hava look and let us know

[dmulally]

I looked there after following the advice on the site but the cupboard was bare...

[jewels]

thats a bugga so you have no ID tag screwed to the inner drivers side guard ?

[Dr Danger]

:) Then you have absolutely got a genuine GT500... :)

[dmulally]

GT500. Good stuff.

No, there is nothing screwed to anywhere.

Judging by that Lotus Replica that went the other day I only need paint it in the colours, weld up the spare tyre wheel well and I can charge a fortune when I sell it! Ill forge a Colin Chapman signiture to the glovebox and I am sweet. He signed his name with a love heart over the i right?

I get the four door tomorrow (cant wait) so I will see what that has attached to it and where and it may be a case of the old switcheroo.

Anybody want to trade a 4 door shell for anything interesting in a couple of weeks? :-)

[dmulally]

Bought a GT engine yesterday that has a couple of dellorto's bolted on. Was out of a racing clubby.

My mate says the clutch is fine but what does the brains trust think about getting a decent racing clutch? (id have to check with historic regs though)

Cheers

Damo

[Dr Danger]

Various options. Most of the pre-65 guys run Hillman pressure plates on the original (lightned) flywheel but I'm not sure how much this can cope with. A fair whack presumably. You can get a small diameter job from somewhere but unless yoour are kicking out close to 180hp I don't think it's necessary.

Probably one of Jewels' nice new ones would be sufficient for a hill climb car???

[dmulally]

Me thinksI must have a chat to Jewels...

[jewels]

geoff in this case is the better person dmulally :)

[dmulally]

Hi All,

Just a quick update that I have every part that I need for the build now.

Ill just have to speak to Geoff in the next week or so about change over suspension parts as its better to be safe at this stage.

Wish I could find replacement strut tops though! Oh well...

Anyway 90% of the body work is done and it is pretty much sitting in etch waiting for hi build primer this weekend weather depending.

Fingers crossed. Ill post some pics if anyone wants any.

Cheers

Damo

[dmulally]

Hi All,

Just a quick update that I have every part that I need for the build now.

Ill just have to speak to Geoff in the next week or so about change over suspension parts as its better to be safe at this stage.

Wish I could find replacement strut tops though! Oh well...

Anyway 90% of the body work is done and it is pretty much sitting in etch waiting for hi build primer this weekend weather depending.

Fingers crossed. Ill post some pics if anyone wants any.

Cheers

Damo

[Dr Danger]

Strut tops (adjustable) come new from K-mac or Whiteline or you might have to wait a while before Geff gets some original ones reconditioned.

[jewels]

yes the compound materials used in the reco strut tops has been deemed not good for

the environment so a different material must be found
one that will last

and this is proving difficult to find at the moment :(

[Dr Danger]

No good. They were prooving fairly popular...

[dmulally]

Yeah, I spoke to Geoff about that and he just wasnt satisfied with reliability which is good for Geoff but I am guessing bad for business.

Ill have to check with historic regs if I can use the K-mac ones. I dont want to have to go out of my way to do everything by the book and get pinged by something small such as strut tops.

[Dr Danger]

So the curent ones in the car are shot? Or it didn't come with them more likely?

Not sure about historic regs but I'd feel pretty ripped if I couldn't use adjustable ones in a race car. If not then just redrill the strut top holes inwards a bit for a bit more camber...?

[jewels]

we are looking at other options
and there is one but more expensive
looks just like factory

[dmulally]

The ones I have are in my 4 door donor which will sacrafice itself for the greater good of giving me 4 spare wings that Ill paint up and use just in case I have an on track incident.

The strut tops look fine and I was definately going to move them in an inch or so but the only problem is they look different. I can take a pic but essentially one looks like it has a thicker rubber bush or something. I havent studied it too closely.

I dont know anything about cortina's and as they look different to each other I'd rather just get a new set.

[Dr Danger]

Interesting. Best post some pics perhaps.